Best bet
A re-glued joint ends up stronger than the wood around it.
Not for: Gap or poor fit
Reviewed and adjusted by an editor.
Why this answer
- Porous and slightly forgiving — glue soaks in, and a well-glued joint ends up stronger than the wood around it. Oily hardwoods like teak need a solvent wipe first.
- It soaks into the grain and cures stronger than the wood itself.
How to do it
Step by step
- Take the joint fully apart and scrape off the old, failed glue.
- Dry-fit the parts; if the tenon is loose in the mortise, plan to fill the gap.
- Brush wood glue onto both surfaces.
- Reassemble and clamp square — check with a quick diagonal measurement.
- Wipe the squeeze-out with a damp cloth and leave clamped overnight.
Conditions
When the answer changes
A badly worn, wobbly tenon needs gap-filling epoxy or a wood shim instead of PVA. If the joint can't come apart, inject glue with a syringe rather than forcing it.
Alternatives
What else works
It bonds to surfaces wood glue cannot, and fills a gap instead of shrinking into one — the reason to reach past PVA on a loose joint or a mixed-material one.
Better when: Gap or poor fit
A bead thick enough to span the gap between a board and an uneven wall — right for trim and panels, far too coarse for a furniture joint.
Better when: Gap or poor fit
Waterproof, and it foams into the grain rather than just drying on it — but the expansion pushes the joint apart unless it is properly clamped.
Better when: Outdoor exposure
The answer for gluing a laminate or veneer sheet down flat with no clamps — never for a joint that carries load.
Bonds fine to bare wood and stays flexible, but it seals rather than joins — use it where the wood meets glass, tile, or a wet surface.
Better when: Water immersion, Flexing or movement
Only when the other side is cloth: it grips bare wood well enough for upholstery but has no strength as a wood joint.
Avoid
What not to use
Avoid
Spray adhesive
Spray adhesive — it tacks paper and cloth to wood, but as a wood-to-wood joint it is a film that peels.
Avoid
Super glue (CA)
Super glue alone — it grabs wood, but cures brittle and bridges gaps poorly.
Avoid
Solvent cement
Solvent cement — it joins by dissolving plastic, and there is nothing in wood for it to dissolve, so it soaks in, evaporates, and leaves the joint dry.
Questions
Common questions
- Why remove the old glue from a loose chair joint?
- Fresh wood glue needs access to sound, bare wood fibers. Brittle residue can block that contact and create a weak layer, so scrape it away without changing the shape of the tenon or mortise.
- Should a worn chair tenon be shimmed or filled with epoxy?
- A well-fitted wood shim can restore broad wood-to-wood contact when wear is even and the joint can still be assembled correctly. Gap-filling epoxy is more useful for an irregular fit or missing material that cannot be restored by a simple shim.
- How do I keep the chair from curing out of square?
- Dry-fit first, place the chair on a flat surface, and check that all legs sit evenly before tightening clamps. Recheck alignment after clamping because pressure can pull a rail or leg away from its intended position.
- Can I inject glue into a chair joint without taking it apart?
- It is a fallback when the joint cannot be separated safely, but it is less dependable because old glue and dirt remain inside and the new adhesive may not reach every surface. Disassembly and proper preparation give a more predictable repair.