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Fix a broken ceramic mug

This task involves: Water immersion, Heat exposure, Food contact

Best bet

2-part epoxy

Waterproof once cured and fills the small gaps in a clean break.

Not for: Heat exposure, Water immersion

Reviewed and adjusted by an editor.

Why this answer

  1. A clean break fits back like a puzzle with almost no gap — ideal for thin glue lines. Unglazed faces are porous; glazed faces are not.
  2. Fills the tiny gaps in a clean break and survives hot water.

How to do it

Step by step

  1. Wash both broken edges and let them dry completely.Two hands holding a mug and its shard under a running tap, both broken edges turned up into the water
  2. Dry-fit the pieces so you know the order they go together.A mug and its matching shard held a finger's width apart, the two break lines facing each other
  3. Mix a small amount of 2-part epoxy and coat one edge thinly.A stick spreading a thin coat along a shard's broken edge, with two puddles stirred into one on a mixing card below
  4. Press together, wipe the squeeze-out, and hold with tape or a rubber band.The shard back in place on the mug, one tape strip across the closed seam and arrows pressing in from both sides
  5. Let it cure fully — overnight, not minutes — before washing.The taped mug standing untouched on a flat surface under a crescent moon

Conditions

When the answer changes

If the mug lives in the dishwasher or microwave, treat the repair as a stopgap — heat and detergent eventually win. A hairline crack (not a clean break) seals better with food-safe silicone.

Alternatives

What else works

  • Food-safe silicone

    It seals rather than joins: right where a ceramic fixture meets a wet surface, wrong for a break that has to hold together.

    Better when: Food contact, Heat exposure

  • Super glue (CA)

    Near-invisible on a clean, tight break and set before you can fumble the piece — but brittle, and it softens in hot water.

Avoid

What not to use

  • Avoid

    Construction adhesive

    Ruled out here by Food contact

    For sticking a tile or a ceramic fixture to a wall, where a thick bead spans an uneven surface — not for mending a broken piece.

  • Avoid

    Polyurethane

    Ruled out here by Food contact

    Waterproof and strong on unglazed ceramic, but it foams out of the crack and leaves a ridge to trim.

  • Avoid

    Contact cement

    Contact cement — the glaze gives its solvent nowhere to go, so the film stays soft and peels.

  • Avoid

    Spray adhesive

    Spray adhesive — far too weak for a rigid part that gets handled and washed.

  • Avoid

    Flexible fabric adhesive

    Fabric adhesive — it is made to stay soft inside a weave, and has no grip on glaze.

  • Avoid

    Wood glue (PVA)

    Wood glue — it shrinks as it dries and won't survive a sink of hot water.

  • Avoid

    Solvent cement

    Solvent cement — glaze and fired clay cannot be dissolved, so the solvent simply evaporates off the break.

Questions

Common questions

Can a repaired mug safely return to drinking use?
Only when the exact adhesive is documented by its manufacturer for the mug's food-contact, temperature, washing, and microwave conditions after full cure. If any part of that use is unsupported or uncertain, keep the mug decorative.
Why should I dry-fit every ceramic piece before mixing the epoxy?
A dry fit confirms the assembly order and shows whether every fragment is present. It also lets you plan tape or supports before the adhesive starts curing, reducing gaps and excess glue at the seams.
Will epoxy hide missing chips in a broken mug?
It can bridge a small defect, but it does not recreate the original ceramic surface or make a visible repair disappear. Large missing areas need a separate rebuild and make returning the mug to functional use less sensible.
What if adhesive squeezes onto the inside of the mug?
Remove squeeze-out while the product instructions still allow safe cleanup. If cured adhesive remains on a drinking surface, or its food-contact suitability is unclear, retire the mug from food and drink use.