Best bet
Wood glue (PVA) with wood shims
Toothpicks or matchsticks saturated in PVA wood glue restore dense wood fibers for screw threads to bite into.
Not for: Load-bearing / shear
Reviewed and adjusted by an editor.
Why this answer
- Porous and slightly forgiving — glue soaks in, and a well-glued joint ends up stronger than the wood around it. Oily hardwoods like teak need a solvent wipe first.
- It soaks into the grain and cures stronger than the wood itself.
How to do it
Step by step
- Remove the loose screw and clear out loose splinters or dust from the hole.
- Coat several wooden toothpicks or matchsticks generously with PVA wood glue.
- Pack the glued toothpicks firmly into the stripped hole until it is completely filled.
- Trim the protruding wooden ends flush with the surface using a sharp utility knife or chisel.
- Allow the glue to cure overnight, drill a small pilot hole, and drive the screw back in.
Conditions
When the answer changes
For heavy-duty load-bearing joints, door hinges under severe stress, or blown-out particleboard, fill the hole with 2-part epoxy or drill out the damage to accept a glued hardwood dowel.
Alternatives
What else works
Cures into a solid anchor plug that can be drilled and tapped when surrounding wood fibers are torn away.
Better when: Load-bearing / shear
A bead thick enough to span the gap between a board and an uneven wall — right for trim and panels, far too coarse for a furniture joint.
Better when: Gap or poor fit
Waterproof, and it foams into the grain rather than just drying on it — but the expansion pushes the joint apart unless it is properly clamped.
Better when: Outdoor exposure
Avoid
What not to use
Avoid
Contact cement
Ruled out here by Load-bearing / shear
The answer for gluing a laminate or veneer sheet down flat with no clamps — never for a joint that carries load.
Avoid
Silicone
Ruled out here by Load-bearing / shear
Bonds fine to bare wood and stays flexible, but it seals rather than joins — use it where the wood meets glass, tile, or a wet surface.
Avoid
Flexible fabric adhesive
Ruled out here by Load-bearing / shear
Only when the other side is cloth: it grips bare wood well enough for upholstery but has no strength as a wood joint.
Avoid
Spray adhesive
Spray adhesive — it tacks paper and cloth to wood, but as a wood-to-wood joint it is a film that peels.
Avoid
Super glue (CA)
Super glue alone — it grabs wood, but cures brittle and bridges gaps poorly.
Avoid
Solvent cement
Solvent cement — it joins by dissolving plastic, and there is nothing in wood for it to dissolve, so it soaks in, evaporates, and leaves the joint dry.
Questions
Common questions
- Can I just put super glue into the stripped hole?
- Super glue hardens quickly but cures brittle and cannot bridge large cavities. When you torque a screw into brittle cyanoacrylate, it shatters under tension. PVA wood glue with wood fibers or 2-part epoxy creates a durable, machinable matrix.
- When should I use a hardwood dowel instead of toothpicks?
- Toothpicks packed with glue work well for light cabinet pulls, small hinges, and lightweight furniture. For heavy passage doors, bed frames, or structural joints, drill the damaged hole to a standard size and glue in a solid hardwood dowel.
- Why is drilling a pilot hole necessary after filling?
- A pilot hole guides the screw dead straight and relieves outward pressure, preventing the dried glue plug and surrounding grain from splitting as the tapered screw enters.
- Does this repair work on particle board and MDF?
- PVA glue and toothpicks work best in solid wood where the surrounding grain is sound. In porous particle board or MDF where the core has crumbled, 2-part epoxy putty is much stronger because it bonds without needing healthy natural wood grain.